Feet

PARTING THOUGHTS…

June 4 2010


After a successful summit bid, Don Healy, Victor Vescovo, Mike Kraft, Vanesssa Folkerts, Jack Martin, Vern Tejas, Garrett Madison, Michael Horst and I returned to the South Col to rest. Our round trip time to the summit and back was less than 14 hours (we hung out on top for about a half hour) and I was SUPER PROUD of our team. Of course we could not have done it with without our awesome team of Sherpas and our supportive base camp staff – Ellie Henke and Joe Kluberton. Congrats to Victor and Mike for completing the 7 Summits. For me it was the completion of what is known in the adventure world as “THE GRAND SLAM,” which is climbing the 7 Summits and skiing to both Poles. I think this accomplishment is extremely meaningful because it may actually help me talk my way into getting a free breakfast at Denny’s.

We spent a night at the Col and the next day came down to C2 and then finally returned to BC. LAST TIME THROUGH THE DREADED Khumbu icefall. We found out that a Spanish climber that we met earlier on the trip (named Ava) was severely injured in the icefall when a snow bridge collapsed. She fractured a few vertebrae, broke her hand and fractured her tibia. She may have broken some other stuff too, I can’t remember. We felt sorry for her for about 5 seconds until we found out that when she fell she was not clipped in to the fixed lines that were set up for safety purposes…because she wasn’t even wearing a climbing harness. HELLO???? Apparently she was able to walk out of the medical clinic unassisted, so apparently she will be just fine (as soon as she raises her IQ a few points).

The following day I started the trek out of the Khumbu and that gave me 2 long days to think about the past 2 months. I’d like to share with you the following parting thoughts:

FILE UNDER: THIS BROKE MY HEART

- John Rudolph leaving the trip before the summit push. He was very sick and couldn’t kick his illness, even with cipro. I cannot even tell you what an important part of the team this guy was. He was smart, funny, strong and it was an honor to climb with him. If he had not fallen ill I know he would have made the summit. Now if only he weren’t such a rabid Gonzaga basketball fan…

FILE UNDER: THIS MADE ME LAUGH

- During our first rotation up to Camp 3 we stopped on the Lhotse Face for a food/water break. We happened to park ourselves right next to a team from Kazakhstan that was also taking a quick break. One of the Kazakhs looked at my yellowish-green girlie-looking backpack (complete with pink duct tape-covered ice ax attached to it) and asked, “What is that on your back – a cosmetics case???”

FILE UNDER: GET A CLUE

- Numerous times during the trip I heard people chalking failure up to things other than a lack of proper skills or weakness. If you can’t perform well in a certain area, look for ways to play to your strengths. Be creative. I was one of the slower members of the team, and I could makes excuses all day about how I was the smallest/lightest, had shorter legs, could not carry as much weight comfortably, etc…but the bottom line is that regardless of the reason for being slower than many of my teammates, I was SLOWER and nothing was going to change that – so I tried to find other ways to contribute to the team since I knew I was never going to be out front breaking trail. People always like to find excuses for lack of performance – I didn’t get this or that because I am a woman, because I am older, because I am short, because I am this ethnicity or that religion or because of some kind of discrimination. Well, discrimination is a HORRIBLE, awful thing, but sometimes we don’t get what we want because we just aren’t all that good. Sometimes the guy next to you is just plain BETTER THAN YOU. Take responsibility for your own shortcomings and work on getting better rather than always chalking up bad outcomes to external factors. Think to yourself, “Maybe I just suck…” and then work really hard at not sucking.

FILE UNDER: OOPS

- While rappelling down a 90’ rock face after our summit, my right crampon got caught in some old twine that was wedged in the rocks – and my right foot was jerked upward while the rest of me went upside down. My oxygen mask was knocked off in the process, and the tank in my backpack was putting pressure on my abdomen and I couldn’t really breathe in the awkward position I was in. I could not reach up to my boot with my right hand and I could not take my left hand off of the rope since it was my brake hand. I looked around to see who could help but there was no one behind me and Chewang was already pretty far out in front of me. At some point he looked back and saw that I wasn’t right behind him, and he came back to the base of the rock face and looked up at me dangling there. I yelled, “Um…little help?” He climbed back up the face and tried to get my boot untangled but he couldn’t do it either. As I still hung upside down he began to take my right foot and bang it against a rock in hope that the twine that was holding me hostage would brake. No luck. Now his hand was bruised/swollen from banging it against the rock. Finally, he was able to help me break lose from the twine and not a moment too soon because I was seriously struggling to breathe. I rappelled the rest of the way down and caught up to Chewang and thanked him and then started laughing. “Hey, that was sort of funny, no?” He laughed too and said, “I think you are TROUBLE.” I said, “Well I think YOU are trouble!” “No, YOU are trouble!!!” he told me. From that point on we never used first names again. We just referred to each other as “Trouble.”

- After our summit bid we were all pretty tired, but the adrenaline was flowing so I had trouble sleeping. I shared a tent at C2 with Don and as we were getting ready to go to bed I decided that perhaps I should take an Ambien to help me sleep (base camp doctors told us that taking Ambien would be okay during the climb). I knew everyone was feeling pretty revved up after the summit so after popping my pill out of the pack I offered one to Don too. “Here… just in case you need it,” I told him. In the morning I realized I had given him a birth control pill.

FILE UNDER: CHIVALRY IS NOT DEAD

- I cannot even begin to express what a class act (most of) the men on my team were. I felt like I got so much help from these guys. I will never forget how far out of their way people went to make sure I was okay on the more challenging parts of the route – ie, waiting for me to get across the ladders (because no matter how many times I crossed them I was always nervous) even if it meant they had to wait around in the cold for me to get to the crossing. People were always asking how I was doing, offering to help me with the weight in my pack, holding out a hand when I needed to jump a big crevasse and encouraging me when I was dragging. And I know they would do this for any of their teammates, male or female. It was really about them just being SOLID human beings.

FILE UNDER: I TAKE THAT BACK

- 65 is the new 45 for sure. Don Healy, who turned 65 on our trip – summitted Mount Everest. He was amazing!!!!

FILE UNDER: BAD IDEA

- After we got back to Kathmandu, Michael, Garrett and I went out for dinner/drinks with a group of guides and climbers from another group (no one else from our group was around – everyone had flown out by then). I wanted to celebrate in proper fashion, but wasn’t sure what to do. I asked the guy sitting next to me at dinner if tequila shots seemed juvenile. He said. “I definitely don’t think so!” So…that kicked off the first of several rounds of tequila shots (and it was BAD tequila). I later found out that the guy sitting next to me was 18 yrs old. Of course he didn’t think tequila shots were juvenile. I, however, ended up having to sleep in the bathtub that night in order to get my hotel room to stop spinning.

FILE UNDER: DUDE, YOUR VAJAYJAY IS SHOWING

- As for my teammate who sent an email suggesting that someone other than he himself was responsible for his trip-ending “injuries” that caused him to leave the expedition after reaching camp 2 – I’d like to refer him to the GET A CLUE file above.

FILE UNDER: OTHER PEOPLE TO THANK

85 Broads ([85broads.com]) – thank you for all of the support and encouragement. I loved having 20,000+ virtual teammates with me. To my family/friends/loved ones who emailed/txtd and kept me motivated – you guys know how much you mean to me. Oh, and let’s not forget the guys at Penserra Securities ([penserra.com]) – George, Robo and Lee – thanks for your support.

So…in closing, I feel honored to have carried an ice axe with Meg’s name on it to the summit of Mt Everest. I could never find the right words to properly express my thanks to my teammates, guides, base camp staff and Sherpas, but please just know how much I love and appreciate you.

After turning back from the South Summit (just a few hundred feet from the top) in 2002, I really didn’t think I would ever try again. Part of me can’t believe I actually DID try again because I swore I never would. And trust me, there were many moments of self-doubt, but somehow I found myself on the top of that mountain. As far as calling the trip a “success,” I hope I can do that. Yes, I made it to the top of a big mountain, but that doesn’t really have all that much meaning when you consider that Mt Everest is just a big pile of rock and ice. Really – that’s all it is. We went up it. It was cold, it was steep, it was tough, blah blah blah. So what? What makes it meaningful are the people you climb with (that’s you too Meg). For me – the goal is never the summit. The goal for any of my climbs is for my teammates to feel glad that I was a part of their expedition. I hope they do indeed feel this way, because I know I am super grateful to have had the opportunity to share the mountain with them. Saying goodbye after the trip was really hard for me. I had sunglasses covering my eyes so no one could see just how difficult it was (I hate crying in front of people). God, I hadn’t shed that many tears since the Republicans lost Congress.

XOXAL

 

Alison Levine, the team captain of the first American Women’s Everest Expedition, conquered Everest! Read about her incredible journey on [85broads.com]!

Alison Levine is no stranger to risk-taking. She has survived sub-zero temperatures, hurricane-force winds, sudden avalanches, and a career on Wall Street – all without the use of supplemental oxygen.

Surprisingly, Levine was born with a life-threatening heart condition that precluded most demanding physical activities. As a teenager, her health was so unstable that she was not even allowed to do such basic things as drive a car or walk up stairs. But 13 years after her initial diagnosis she had surgery that changed her life – and climbing stairs soon gave way to climbing mountains, a passion she continued to pursue despite her initial health setbacks.

Over the years as she continued to climb the corporate ladder, Levine also pushed her limits on the world’s highest peaks and soon became one of the most experienced female mountaineers in the country. She has climbed peaks on every continent, served as the team captain of the first American Women’s Everest Expedition, and skied across the Arctic Circle to the geographic North Pole. In January 2008, she made history as the first American to complete a 600-mile traverse from west Antarctica to the South Pole following the route of legendary explorer Reinhold Messner. Levine completed this arduous journey on skis while hauling 150 pounds of her gear and supplies in a sled harnessed to her waist. Her success in extreme environments is noteworthy given she suffers from a neurological disease that causes the arteries that feed her fingers and toes to collapse in cold weather, leaving her at extreme risk for frostbite.

Levine’s expeditions have been documented by more than 450 media outlets. She is the subject of the PBS documentary Living Courageously (2007) and has made numerous appearances on The Today Show, Good Morning America, CNN, CNBC, Fox, CBS’ Evening News, and other national programs. Her accomplishments are featured in several books including More Than 85 Broads (J Hanson, McGraw Hill), Smart Moves (Curran & Greenwald, Ten Speed Press) and In Extremis Leadership (T Kolditz, Wiley & Sons). Her story has been the subject of articles in Oprah Magazine, National Geographic, Entrepreneur, Sports Illustrated, Outside and other publications.

Levine earned her bachelor’s degree from the College of Social and Behavioral Sciences at the University of Arizona. Her 21-year business career encompasses healthcare, technology and finance. After earning her MBA from Duke University she moved to New York to work for investment banking firm Goldman Sachs. In 2003, she left Wall Street to serve as deputy finance director for Arnold Schwarzenegger in his successful bid to become Governor of California.

Levine is the founder and President of Daredevil Strategies, a consulting firm specializing in organizational effectiveness, leadership development and team dynamics. Drawing parallels between staying alive in the mountains and thriving in a fast-paced business world, Levine focuses on the topics of leadership, teamwork, overcoming odds, tackling fear, taking responsible risks and dealing with changing environments.

In 2005 she founded the Climb High Foundation, a nonprofit organization dedicated to improving the lives of jobless women in Africa by training them to be trekking guides and porters in their local mountains so they will have the skills to earn a sustainable living wage through climbing-related tourism.

Follow Alison on her incredible journey by following her blog postings and on Twitter @levine_alison!